RAID PYRENEAN

RAID PYRENEAN RONDONNEE 

2nd - 10th SEPTEMBER 1995

A story by Nev. Pearson      -     The resemblance of any characters in this story to persons real or fictional is purely co-incidental.

  SATURDAY  2nd  SEPTEMBER  1995,  7.00  a.m. LANCASTER  BUS  STATION

                 Picture the grim site of  5  Lancaster  C.C. members  (Alison Gildings, Maeurig Garbutt, Pete Donnelly, Neil Slater  and  Nev Pearson)  in civvies with suitcases / rucksacks & large oddly shaped bags containing their prized possessions,  awaiting a coach from Kendal. There should be 6 present but Greg Gildings is ''off the back'' supposedly parking his car.

                Greg arrives just as the coach rolls up with 15 Burneside Wheelers on board. The  6 Lancas­trians  are part of this Burneside group travelling with Graham Baxter Sporting Tours to tackle the infamous Raid Pyrenean Rondonnee a 710km (440 miles) ride through the Pyren­ees, over all the major cols with a total of 11,000m (36,000ft) climbing, all in a limit of 100 hours.

                Down the M6 and M61, across the M62 and down the M1, the coach makes rapid prog­ress and picks up more riders from other clubs. There are lots of stops and with the coach ahead of schedule, waiting for riders to arrive.  There are queues on the M25 but at last Dover is reached and the last and 41st rider collected.

                On the ferry and whilst the Burneside 'hardmen' head for the bar and duty free to stock up on liquid carbohydrate (beer for short), we head for the restaurant but with long queues we go on deck to wave bye-bye to the white cliffs. Eventually we get food at the burger bar and soon Calais is in site.

                It is now dark with another long drive to Paris which, with the change of time , is reached at 12.30 a.m.. The Hotel Premiere Classe is a series of sleeping 'pods' complete with one-piece moulded bathrooms, but thankfully we don't have to stay long.

 SUNDAY 3rd  SEPTEMBER  1995,   Early

                Our first 'continental' breakfast, and an omen of things to come, then back on the coach for an­other long drive. Central France is so flat and there's nothing to do but read, eat, drink and of course listen to Pete. We stop for lunch at a service station which is so different to in Britain. A group of pleasant low buildings, picnic grounds and paths to stroll along, all away from the road.

                Back on the road and a cycling video on the coach. After watching 2 videos yesterday, Greg hid the remaining cycling videos before the rep. got on the bus in the morning, with the exception of 'A Sunday in Hell' which I told him I wanted to watch. The rep. put this on, and after finding the 'hidden' films (What did he say to you Greg ? ), followed it with another, much to Greg's annoy­ance.

                Eventually, feeling very stiff from being confined in the coach, and wondering how we would loosen up for tomorrows ride, we arrive at Hendaye on the French / Spanish border and the coast of the Atlantic in the Bay of Biscay.

                The rep., Mark, allocates rooms at the Hotel Campanile, which is a much more pleas­ant hotel than the first night's stop, having good sized rooms and satelite T.V. covering the Vuelta D'Espagnia. We are then told to build our bikes before dinner and put them into the hotel rooms.

                We take over the car park for bike building as bike bags are opened,bubble wrap and pipe insu­lation are discarded in heaps, tools and track pumps are passed around and every-one looks much happier as complete bikes appear. What a mixture too. From pure tourers with 'guards, racks etc. to a glittering Colnago with Shamals!. Most however are stripped tourers with small saddle or handlebar bags. There are quick rides around the car park or even down the road into Spain for some, to check everything works and that the bike is O.K.!. Then it is time for a meal at the Hotel which receives approval when large dishes of Pasta appear, although there is some confusion caused by the French habit of having each part of the meal separately, that is, meat then veg. then pasta etc.. The day is rounded off with a walk into Spain (5 minutes) because the French bars are closed and beer is cheaper in Spain anyway. The beer is for serious carbo-loading only or course, not to be enyojed.

Monday 4th  September  1995

Hendaye  to  Lurbe St. Cristeau   ------   165 km

via  Col St. Ignace  (169m), Col Pinodeita (176m) and Col D'Osquich (500m)

                Breakfast at 8 a.m. is good as, apart from bread and jam (continental breakfast) there are cere­als, fruit, yoghurt, meat and cheese. There is enough to make a Ham roll for lunch after eating as much as possible. Outside it is starting to rain, which is not what was expected at all, so it is racing capes on at the start when Mark askes that at 9.00 a.m. we all set off to­gether and ride in one group to the first control at 46km in Espelette. We have been issued with our Carnet and Frame Number, and get our first stamp from the Hotel with the time 9.00a.m. for the start.

                On the road at last and Pete has 'RIDE ON THE RIGHT' written large across his bar bag, such is his confidence. Mark goes to the front to guide us through town and Greg makes the first score for Lancaster by falling off after 1 mile on some patched tacmac wet with rain. We are later told this is the first rain for weeks so the roads are treacherous! With Greg upright and seemingly unhurt, Mark sets off again at a good pace and splits the group he wanted to stay together. Behind the only Mountain Bike rider in the group punctures but the coach has just set off behind and stops so he can use a track pump to speed up the repair. With the split, Pete had waited behind but comes quickly up to the front to avoid being lost.

                The first couple of Cols are only small and the group rolls up them hardly noticing the gradi­ent, just like the 'Autobus' in Le Tour, I think not! The descent is another matter though as the slip­pery roads claim more victims, slidding off by cornering too fast and lucky to get away with a few abrasions. This does Pete's confidence, or lack of it for descending,no good at all but it does at least calm down the over confident.

                The front group soon reaches Espelette and descend on a garage to get a control stamp. The others are close behind and arrive at the garage before we leave. The first rende­vous with the bus is near Espelette and the weather has improved now so we can sit outside to eat the break­fast rolls, bananas or whatever. I am caught on the hop when a large group starts to leave and I'm still eating so I end up chasing alone for several miles. I pass Greg and Alison stopped on a bit of a climb (bearing in mind everone is to set their own pace for the rest of the day, they clearly don't plan to rush) and regain the 'bunch' containing Neil, Pete and Maeurig. We turn onto a more major highway after back roads for several miles and we can't beleive it when the front of the group start doing 'through and off' with about 12 riders, this is supposed to be touring and Pete's computer shows 24 mph !! It's lucky we are riding in kilometers or it would hurt !? Then, thankgoodness, Neil punctures so Pete and I stop with him. A couple of small groups, going at a sane pace, pass and Maeurig passes alone, setting his own pace. Tube replaced we are off again and soon find everyone stopped at the second coach rende­vous, for lunch, in St.-Jean-Pied-De-Port.

                After more food is forced down, this is eating to survive not for pleasure, its straight back on the road again. Riding with Pete and Neil we start doing a 3up on rolling roads, not having got out of  the earlier high pace, and catch another group just before the Col D'Osquich (or ostrich as we call it). This is the first 'proper' climb and it immediately shatters the 'bunch'. Pete shoots off the front and Neil drops off my wheel but we all know we must set our own pace. After a few minutes I settle into a rythme on 32x17 along-side a rider on a really flash Mercian with Campag Record Ergo. I beleive he must be good on that bike but later he admits he was riding faster than he should have because he wanted to use me for pace. At the top I catch Maeurig, who set off from the coach stop earlier and again set his own pace, then lower on the descent with its sweeping curves I catch Pete doing his bit for brake block manufactur­ers. We get together with a group for the valley run to Tardets and another control stamp at a garage. Consulting the route, we have only 24km to do, which we convince ourselves is flat but consume energy bars anyway. The 24km feel like miles with 2 more climbs to do, so I am thankful to reach St. Christeau and the Hotel Les Vallees. This is supposed to be an easy 'warm up' day and I'm shattered.

                The bikes are parked inside the hotel and we go to find our room number only to be stopped for the secret control, which we were told could be anywhere along the route, how cunning to have it at the hotel we are staying at !  They must really expect us to cheat. I then find I'm not staying at this hotel, although Pete, who I've been sharing with, is?  Anyway several of us are taken by taxi a few kilometers to a chateau set in grounds with a lake etc., what a change from the 'Premiere Classe' Paris !  After a bath and a beer I feel human again and enjoy the meal with Pasta again and this time, wine on the table. Mark gives us a talk about the next days arrangements and tells us how much harder it will be on the real climbs !

Tuesday 5th  September  1995

St. Cristeau to Ste.-Marie-De-Campan   ------   131 km.

via Col D'Aubisque (1709m), Col Du Soulor (1464m) and

Col Du Tourmalet (2115m)

                 There is an alternative route for the first stage this morning which involves an extra climb of the Col de Marie Blanc. We have decided this is only for the 'animals' and also decide an early start would be a good idea for such a day. When we come out of breakfast it is raining but Pete, Neil and myself are first on the road and tag onto another group from Shropshire who are riding Lightweights with a service van in attendance. Maeurig isn't far behind but we learn later that Greg and Alison changed route at the last minute and headed for the extra climb ! Our route is a rolling meander through woods until Laruns where we fill up bottles at the foun­tain and eat some energy bars. On the outskirts of Laruns the Col D'Aubisque starts with a sign saying 18km to go and the average gradient for the next kilometer. The sign boards count down the kilometers as we climb through woods on hairpins at a gradient of 7 to 8 % . I feel comfortable in 32x21 and Neil climbs at just the same pace with Pete showing great restraint to stay with us for a long time until eventually dropping us. 5km from the top we reach the ski sta­tion which is completely closed for the summer. Pete  has waited here and after the town the climb changes getting steeper over open 'moon-scape' ground and now disappearing into the cloud. The visibility has greatly reduced now and we split up to each set our own pace as the next couple of kilometers are really hard. About 1 kilometer from the top it all becomes worth­while  when we ride out of the top of the cloud into bright sunshine. All around are mountain peaks poking through the dense cloud and, to the south, the northern faces of mountains have snow and glaciers !

                We stop at the top, where there is a cafe, to get a control stamp and some food.  At the begin­ning of the climb only Mark, the rep., had passed us, on a charge to first at the hotel but on the top of the climb  several others arrive whilst we are eating, including 3 of the 'animals' who did the Marie-Blanc and one of them doesn't even want to stop here !

                After some photographs and a chat to some Americans who are doing the route in reverse, probably because of the mirrors they have fixed to their helmets, we start the descent which is good and fast with some tunnels which are small enough to prevent the coach follow­ing us this morning. We don't drop far before starting the climb of Col Du Soulor but Neil and I have to wait for Pete who looses 5 minutes in 10 minutes descending (sorry Pete, an exag­geration I know but it felt that long). At the top of the Soulor with 'only' 4 kilometers climbing, we stop for more photographs before starting a superb long descent toward Argeles-Gazost. Neil and I completely loose Pete on such a long descent but stop in a village where Neil wants to buy postcards. Having selected cards of the Col D'Aubisque from the rack outside, Neil goes toward the shop to pay only to find it closed, as most of the shops seem to be most of the time !  The village public toilet is open however  and when we stop there we are caught by Jeff from Birkenhead who is riding the event for the second time (sure proof on insanity if it were needed). Pete arrives as we set off and Jeff saves us some time by guiding the way through the busy town of Argeles-Gazost. On the outskirts of the town the coach is waiting having taken a differant route to aviod the Col D'Aubisque. We spend some time here eating, knowing what is to come and Pete catches up again having punctured just before the coach. Many others arrive, some only stopping for minutes, others like Mauerig head for the cafe to get coffee and put his feet up. 

                From the coach stop the road takes a gradual climb up the valley for 11km before the start of the Col Du Tourmalet, so Neil and I set off to let Pete catch us, which he does shortly. At Luz-St-Sauveur in the valley below the Tourmalet we are already at a height of over 700m and looking up it is impossible to imagine a route for a road over the mountain, but the count­down begins at 18km to go.

                Again we soon find we have to set our own pace and climb alone with Pete in front as usual. We climb out of the trees and upto the ski resort at about 8km and here I pass Pete stopped in the village to buy provisions, but continue at the same pace knowing he will catch me again. I am now using bottom gear of 32x24 even though the gradient is only 7 to 8% as this climb does seem endless. Pete catches me on the wide open spaces of the upper part of the climb and stays in sight for a long time on such roads until we again ride into the cloud which seems thicker than on the Col D'Aubisque and is made worse by the freshly gritted road which means getting out of the saddle just causes wheel spin. From about 3km to go onward all that can be seen is a patch of tarmac all around with no hint of the massive drop-off to the side of the road which I know, and can sense, is there. This last stretch seems eternal until I realize the 1km board is missing when the rather unremarkable, but familiar from Tour coverage, top suddenly appears from the mist after 2 hours of climbing !  Other riders later had stopped because of the missing kilometer board only to then realise they were perhaps less than 100 meters from the top without knowing it. I proped my bike against the board announcing 2115m high and walk across the road to photograph it. When I turn around the bike is almost lost in the mist ! I can make out a small cafe with some bikes outside, but recognize none. As everything else is lost in the mist, including what should have been a magnificent view, I put on all the clothing I am carrying with the plastic map case between layers across my chest and start the 17km descent to Ste-Marie-De-Campan. Unable to see more than a few meters I go very slowly which is just as well as I am still getting very cold. This is the side of the Tourmalet that is climbed in le Tour de France so the road is a continuous list of names, which I try to read upside-down. Indurain, Virenque and JaJa (Jalabert) seem the most popular.

                As the mist clears, or rather as I drop out of the cloud, I can go faster but am now shaking with the cold, I am however lucky as later it starts raining and several riders are in seri­ous trouble on this descent. I freewheel right to the hotel yard and stagger in to find I am the fifth to arrive, having taken 9 hours to get there, and there is no Pete,  just when I thought he'd stayed away descending. I join Jeff who I rode with earlier in hot tea, whilst a couple of hard­ened Audax riders, who hardly stop all day, have finished and are heading for their rooms. Mark has show­ered and come downstairs again but still in his kit as the coach has yet to arrive, also the moun­tain biker  from the 'animal' group is here, having gone upstairs to wash. Others arrive all very welcome of the hot tea the English hotel owner provides (but at 11 francs a pot) and I go up to the room to put my feet up which I have found is, for me, very beneficial to recovery. I must have nodded off because next thing Pete was coming in with his rucksack, which meant the coach had also arrived. Pete explained that he had been in the cafe at the top of the Tourmalet, along with a few others who had been ahead on the climb, but I hadn't spot­ted his bike outside. As I walked to where the coach was parked, wearing borrowed trainers to save my cleats, it was starting to rain and I was glad I wasn't still up on the mountain.

                We were having dinner when the last riders arrived. Elanor from the Burneside and Greg & Alison had done the Marie-Blanc but because of this Elanor had to ride up the Tour­malet in the coach and Greg & Alison ran out of time and took a taxi from the ski resort to the top. It was a pity for them they missed the climb but every-one did really well to 'survive' the day.

                After dinner most people just wanted to sleep but Pete and I went in search of a bar only to find there wasn't one open. What a strange place France is ! I did find a telephone box to 'phone home' and then returned to the hotel where I paid their exhorbitant prices to get a Whiskey which we drank sat on the steps outside to celebrate conquering the mighty Tourmalet and muse on the fact that because we didn't see the view from the top we would have to do it all again next year !  

Wednesday 6th.  September  1995

Ste-Marie-De-Campan to Massat   ------   163km

via Col D'Aspin (1489m), Col De Peyresourde (1569m), Col Des Arres (797m), Col De Buret (602m) and Col De Portet D'Aspet (1069m)

                The morning is bright and sunny which is greatly appreciated after the previous days rain and gives promise of some views from the tops of the cols. Yesterday was supposed to be the hardest day but with over 100 miles and 5 cols I am worried whether I will have recovered enough for today. Many others must feel the same because as Neil and I set off from the hotel, straight into the 13km climb of the Col D'Aspin, there are more riders trying to get an early start and take the first climb easily. We climb as before with Pete catching and dropping us but are not far apart at the top where the views are spectacular in the sunshine and all the cameras are out.

                Pete gets a head start on the descent, probably hoping to stay in front until the bottom but with dry roads, long straights and good visibility, I decide to let go on this descent and with Neil glued to my wheel fly down, passing Pete going into the third comer, and keep the pace up except when stuck behind a coach for a while until sprinting past out of a hairpin. Such our speed that it takes Pete until the top of the next col to catch up. Descending like this is very exhilarating but strictly for good roads with a good view ahead. (and brain disengaged)

                Through Arreau and straight into the Col De Peyresourde for 17 km climbing and the day is becoming very warm, so I remove my undervest and strip down to one thin short sleeved jersey, shorts, cotton cap to keep the sun off and track mitts because of all the pulling on the bars when climbing. To make sure I have enough water I take a drink at every kilometre board on the climb so two large bottles soon disappear. I climb the Peyresourde alone having lost Neil near the bottom, he seems to struggle with this climb and is suffering from getting a chill descending the Tourmalet in the rain.

                The coach is on the top of the Peyresourde for lunch where we eat as much as we can with more cols to do. The descent toward Bagneres De Luchon is very pleasant, dropping quickly at first and then more gradually along a valley. I loose Pete near the top of the descent and don't see him again all day, then pass the group from Shropshire who we saw briefly yes­terday and who still have their van in close attendance. When I stop to take off my windproof I am caught by Jeff from Birkenhead again and he suggests we do a 2-up far the next 16km of flat valley road to 'raise our average', which works well as 1 roll a big gear (for touring) with little effort. With Jeff having ridden the event before he thinks he knows the way, unfortunately some-one built a new road and round-about and forgot to tell him, but we didn't go to far wrong before realising. Onto the Col Des Arres, which is a molehill at 'only' 797m. and I let Jeff go as I have to stop for a call of nature despite the heat. (I remembered to check there were no pho­tographers as well - good advice there from Andy Creevy) Such small climbs seem easy and my fears of that morning are unfounded as I feel stronger with each climb. I take the descent easy with being alone, eating from stores in my bar bag and admiring wonderful countryside of rolling wooded hills with hardly a car on the road. In fact I have hardly seen any-one at all for many kilometres and it is the top of the Col De Buret when I see another rider where a group have stopped at a cafe. I wonder if to stop for water but decide 1 have enough until the top of the Col De Portet D'Aspet.

                A short descent into a steep sided valley with no apparent route out, over a narrow bridge and past rock faces with small lizards basking in the sun marks the start of the climb of the Col De Portet D'Aspet. I am straight into bottom gear not only because this is the fifth col the day, but also because it is steeper than most. After only 2 bends the place where Fabio Casartelli crashed and died is clearly marked with flowers and tributes which are to be replaced by a permanent memorial. I stop for a moment to reflect and have difficulty setting off again on the steep slope. The climb continues for several kilometres and does fortunately ease in gradi­ent but I am now low on water and it is very hot.

                There is no steep drop-off from the Portet D'Aspat but a very pleasant run down a quiet valley where I don't have to pedal for many kilometres. There are several small run-down vil­lages but no shops or bars open, or in fact any sign of life, so no water. A couple of villages have small fountains which one can usually drink from but these carry a notice "L'eau non po­table" which roughly translated means "this water comes from a piss-pot". After about 18 kilo­metres I find a bar which is clearly open because 8 Burneside Wheelers are sat outside. They are about to leave so I down a quick lemonade and fill my water-bottle so that I can join their group for the gradual run down to St.Giron, 12 kilometres away. In St. Giron we have to get a control stamp and so descend on a small bar on the outskirts before trying to negotiate the busy town centre where we have to ask directions for Massat, our stopping place for that night. Whether we misunderstood the directions I don't know but we rode right through the town cen­tre on narrow streets where the different attitude to cyclists was highlighted again as pedestri­ans and car drivers make room for us and give encouragement. Some of the younger riders exchange a few words with some teenage girls who clearly view men on bicycles with anything but amusement.

                We find the road to Massat easily enough and settle down for the last 28 kilometres which the route shows to be all uphill and which proves to be a long false-flat up a narrow wooded valley with the river beside us. I am pleased to be in a group on such a road but am surprised I still feel so strong when taking a turn on the front. As Massat comes into view I am even more surprised when there is a sprint for the town sign. I certainly don't have the energy or inclination for that. At the hotel which a pleasant 'Alpine' style building we find the same few 'fast men' in before us and Mark the Rep. looking rather annoyed that the coach hasn't arrived yet. Later he complains to the bus driver but we back up Stuart, the driver, as he waited at the top of the last climb for the backmarkers who include Greg, Alison and several Burnside Wheelers such as John who is struggling with a painful knee. Only when they had all passed did Stuart drive to the hotel where we were all quite happy to wait, sat on the verandah in the sun with cans of beer from the supermarket, whilst other groups including Pete, Neil and Maeurig arrive.

                This hotel is another with rooms for three and this time I am sharing with Neil and lan of Burneside Wheelers. After a meal, which is interrupted by the backmarkers group arriving to cheers and applause, Pete, Neil and I sit out on the verandah for more beer, or in Pete's case whiskey, and exchange stories of the day whilst Greg and Alison head off for a bath having got off the bike directly to the dinner table, and Maeurig is rumoured to be already asleep having successfully completed a day he threatened not to start due to extreme pain from sitting on the saddle which had even been adjusted for position that morning to try improve matters. Not that Maeurig is the only sufferer as was evident from the exchange of Vaseline and creams from those that carry such things, and therefore don't need them, to those in need.

                Several riders had complained of difficulty sleeping, even though very tired, but that I night went straight off only to be woken by lan, who had been to a bar in town, coming in and almost instantly starting to snore on the Richter scale so that I got almost no sleep and feel dreadful the next morning.

Thursday 7th.  September  1995

Massat to Prades   ------   168km.

via Col De Port (1249m.), Col De Puymorens (1915m.)

and Mont Louis (1585m.)

                Today is the longest milage and has the second highest col of the ride and I feel awful with lack of sleep and indigestion which is giving me heartburn so that I don't feel like eating at all. This may be a touring trip but it is starting to feel like a stage race. Neil is similarly rough with a cold, so we are pleased when Burneside Wheelers set off en-mass, to nurse their slower riders though the day, and we can latch onto the group as we start the first 12km climb straight from the hotel.

                After a while I find the pace too slow as I am struggling to steer because of the 'testers' headset in my bike, which is pitted in the straight line position, so I move ahead to join Pete Graham from Kent Valley for the rest of the Col Du Port. We think we are setting a good pace until Pete Donnelly comes past as if we're stood still. If only he could descend he'd rival Big Mig. At the top of the col we join Pete and, with Burneside group not too far behind, we all ad­mire the contrasting views West to rolling wooded hills we have come over, and East to jagged rocky countryside.

                I start the descent just behind Pete and am surprised when he stays ahead most of the way, although this is a gradual straight descent without the steep drop-offs to the side. I am however pleased to be with Pete who doesn't complain when I study his back wheel for the next 30 rolling kilometres through Tarascon-Sur-Ariege and Les Cabannes to Ax-Les- Thermes on a fairly major road. Pete does drop me over the top of one drag when he accelerates up to 27 mph to take great satisfaction from passing a rider from Leeds, who we have named Pantani, due to being similarly follically challenged as the great climber, and who Pete has been battling with all week. Pete waits for me when I pass 'Pantani' but I am really suffering now and can't see how I'm going to finish the day, so I am delighted when Pete suggests a cafe stop in Ax-Les-Thermes.

                As the name suggests the town is a Spa and In the central square where we stop is a sunken area with people sat on steps bathing their feet in a pool fed by the thermal spring. We resist joining them and get hot food and coffee at a smart bar where the waiter immediately ask if we want "Bidon de l'eau' and although we haven't finished the first of the two bottles we carry we accept and our bottles are filled with cold water and ice which made them too cold to drink immediately, but just right on the climb of Col De Puymorens ahead.

                Several riders came past whilst we sat outside the bar, including the Burneside group containing Neil. but they all continued onto the climb. The Col de Puymorens is 27km long in total but with a very gradual gradient no steeper than 6%. The wind was in our faces all the way up the climb making it hard going, but fortunately I was feeling better now and Pete was holding back to my pace. Not far into the climb we pass Jack from Burneside, sat on the side of the road, and enquire if he is O.K., but he has just decided such a long climb deserved a stop for a chocolate bar. We consider the wonders of the engineering on the railway line, which cuts a way up the valley parallel to us, and I decide it would be the best way up today. We are passed part of the way up by Mark who would be last to leave the hotel this morning, will probably be first in this afternoon. although he is struggling to hold the Mountain Biker on this climb as he suggests we take his back wheel. There is no way I can increase pace but I am sure Pete could do so, and suggest he does, but he declines.

                At the village of L'Hospitalet, two-thirds of the way up, the coach is waiting. Here the wind is so strong the coach rocks from side to side as we sit inside to eat and outside my bike is blown over depositing the contents of the bar bag on the ground. The Burneside group with Neil have stopped here so we set off with them to continue climbing on a road that is quieter now as motor vehicles have the option of taking the tunnel into Andorra along the same route as the railway. Just short of the border our road turns back across the side of the mountain with a back wind at last, but the group has already fractured and with Pete going ahead I climb with Pete Graham again and leave the Burneside 'bunch'.

                On the top of Puymorens the wind is too strong to stand for long and admire the view from nearly 2000 meters up, over countryside which has changed again to be more open and rugged, so it is windproofs on for the 27km descent to Bourg-Madame in company with Pete and Jeff who had caught us on the top. It is not descending quite all the way as we drop into a natural bowl with hills all around and the last kilometres to the town are flat and straight which seems very strange to ride. Jeff remembers a good cafe in Bourg-Madame from his previous visit so we stop there for more hot food and are soon joined by the Burneside group. Here Pete gets into conversation with an elderly local gent who offers encouragement for what we doing and, because we are English, goes on about Margaret Thatcher, although what he's saying we don't know !

                We form a large bunch for the climb to Mont Louis which is actually four cols but with small descents, just stepping up, and thankfully a total of only 450m. climbing. Just before the top we come across some cars stopped with people doing much shouting and arm waving. It seems a van has gone over the side which demonstrates the danger of the mountain road. Having established no cyclists are involved we can do no more so continue and meet the am­bulance on its way. Soon after Pete "attacks" which brings some disapproving noises the bunch until I explain he will need the gap on the descent ahead, especially after seeing a vehicle crashed over the side.

                Over the top and our route indicates 39km. all downhill to Prades which is hard to be­lieve but turns out to be true when we do it in 45 minutes including photo stops to admire an­other railway carved into the climb and beautiful little villages along the route. The Hotel Hexagone at Prades is thankfully twin rooms so I look forward to a good nights sleep. As soon as we arrive we head for the room and I crash out with my legs up on the wall to watch TV up­side down, there is no satellite channel with the Vuelta D'Espagna. so it is no disadvantage watching French TV this way. Pete has his bath and heads off into town to look lor bike shops and get some provisions whilst I eventually drag myself up and go down to the garage to check my bike which has developed a creak during the day. Whilst I am there Maeurig arrives looking weary but pleased to survive another day setting his own pace and I continue to tighten a few bolts but can find nothing wrong so go back to wait outside reception. This hotel has no restau­rant so we have to walk to a restaurant in town and have to meet at reception for directions. Pete returns from his shopping trip and is bearing a wonderful gift - indigestion tablets !

                The walk to the restaurant for our meal involved some climbing, as we would expect, but was no more than a couple of flights of steps and well worthwhile for a good meal where Pete provided some cabaret by removing from other tables some mustard, then bread and later bowls of fruit left by non-cyclists. Greg, Alison and the backmarkers arrived when we were well into our meal having reached the hotel after we had left but then getting run to the restaurant by the hotel manager in a car !

Friday 8th September 1995

Prades to Cebere. ------ 82km

via Col St. Pierre (l85m) and Col Ternere (200m)

                This is the last short dash of only 50 miles from the edge of the Pyrenees down to the coast. The cols listed are a joke after the climbs we've done and the profile shows the only climb of interest will be on the coast road just before Cebere.  Everyone is eager now just to reach Cebere and as we started at 9.00am Monday, with 100 hours to complete the route, we have until 1.00pm. Greg and Alison wisely make an early start, to ensure time for their cafe stops, and skip breakfast to do so. This is no loss as since Hendaye we have been offered nothing but bread and jam so that Pete had to resort to buying Cornflakes and milk which he generously shared, but I was sadly missing my Muesli and had made a mental note that I must bring some with me next time.

                A large group prepare to leave shortly after 8.30am but Pete, Neil and I get off just before them to stop on the outskirts of town for a photograph of the mountains. The big group comes by and we chase to get on for an easy ride along a boring main road which drops very gradually toward the coast. We set such a brisk pace that no-one notices when we pass the turn-off, so we have to double back up the slip road onto a more minor (and more pleasant road). With several of us taking long turns on the front and the slower or tired riders sitting-in on the large group the pace is maintained through picturesque agricultural countryside.

                The pace is only broken by towns we pass though, in one of which we find Greg & Alison, stopped at a cafe, and which require decisions on direction at junctions to be made. The only other delay is a puncture and the victim is Andy Barlow but the entertainment is provided Pete Graham who looks behind to see who has punctured, rides into the back of the rider front who slows quicker, and does a slow-motion summersault into the ditch. Fortunately Pete was not hurt other than his pride.

                When we get going again Pete Donnelly decides to go to the front but goes so hard as to off the front. The resulting line-out behind sheds several riders, such as Mauerig, who decide they don't want to ride at 27mph staring at the wheel in front.

                Just before the coast we turn onto a new dual-carriageway and check the route to make sure we should be there as it feels odd after the mountains. Thankfully this road is only for 5 miles as both Andy and myself are wanting bigger gears and tri-bars in these conditions. Through Argeles-sur-mere, onto the old coast road and there it is - THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA ! There are still about 10 miles of coast road to cover and on this road we pass through Collioure which according to the town sign is twinned with "Settle - Yorkshire', we're nearly home.

                There is another short stretch of the new dual-carriageway ahead, which it appears is being built in sections to be joined together later, and on this stretch we pass through a long tunnel which climbs gradually but avoids a climb over the headland. In the dimly lit tunnel and with only a few kilometres to go an "attack" comes with a couple of the Burneside lads "going for it" to be first to Cebere. The rest of the group string out but then regroup as we descend and come to the end of the new road and back to the old coast road again. Through Banyuls and we see the "sting in the tail" shown on the profile map, in the form or the climb over Cap L'Abeille to get to the bay of Cebere.

                At the start of the climb Pete does his usual going "off the front" bit but as this is the last climb with no reason to conserve energy, I stay on the big ring and set a steady pace higher than on any previous climb. The 'tactic' works as I pass and drop Pete and maintain the pace to the top. In front at last and revenge is sweet. As, going over the top, I can't see anyone behind, I decide to keep going to Cebere along the twisting coast road and apart from getting stuck behind a camper-van which is descending at 25mph, and requires a sprint out of a bend to safely pass and the extremely strong sun which leads me to pour water from my bottles over my arms which I can feel burning, the final kilometres are easy and I roll triumphantly into Cebere to pull up at the cafe where the few riders ahead of me are stopped. It is congratulations all round for completing the ride as I get my final control stamp at 11.25 after 98.5 hours, 710 kilometres and 18 cols. The rest of the riders arrive alone or in small groups and the celebrations continue as more beers are ordered.

                Pete, Neil and Maeurig have all arrived and we get a meal at the cafe to soak up the beer drunk on a empty stomach and when dehydrated. Greg and Alison arrive to much congratulations for their efforts and persistence to complete the ride.

                Then it is sadly time to pack up the bikes in their bags and get changed on the coach ready far the afternoon drive to Nimes for an overnight stop. There is some time to spare as Mark and Stuart have to ensure the bikes are packed in the order people are to be dropped off on the way home, so some go back to the cafe, others use the chance far a dip in the Med and I take a walk around the harbour to take some photo's. Just before we go all the Burneside group, which includes the six Lancaster riders who have qualified for membership by completing an Audax, gather for a group photograph in front of the Cebere town map.

                The drive into Nimes is quiet as I guess no-one is happy to be back in the coach with the ride over or perhaps it is just tiredness setting in. At Nimes our hotel is the Ceasars Palace which is the poshest we've stayed in and big too. The hotel is on a modern estate out of town which includes shops, so after a bath I have the chance to do some gift shopping but find few shops still open.

                On the drive in, the town centre appeared to be some distance away and enquiries about the possibility of going there for the evening meet with conflicting views on the distance. After our meal at the hotel the Burneside group head off to look for a bar and find a suitable watering hole just outside the hotel where we stop for a conference to decide whether to try and walk into town. One round leads to another, then Pete and I use the 'phone box across the road from the bar to 'phone home, and after a couple of hours two disconsolate souls join us after having set off for town, walked for an hour, got nowhere and come back. So our decision, or lack of it, was for the best and we stay put until the small hours in a test of endurance to discover the hardened few as one by one people submit and retreat to bed.

Saturday 9th September

 Nimes to Reims

Todays drive is another marathon in the coach but at least the countryside is more interesting than the trip down as we go through the Massif Central and see Mont Ventoux. Otherwise we return to the routine of reading, watching videos etc.. One problem which does become evident is cramps in legs which have been very active for five days and are now confined to the small space of a coach seat. Walking up and down the aisle helps but it is still a painful experience. Stuart makes very good time by pushing on hard all day, although later I found we went right past the Corima factory where we could have had a break to look around, and we are well ahead of schedule approaching Reims. Mark suggests that, as there is no restaurant at or near the hotel for that night, we stop at services just before Reims for meal. This proves convenient and time saving but very expensive for a simple meal.

                The hotel at Reims is a Premiere Classe identical to Paris and equally awful, so we quickly look for somewhere to go out. We are well out of town on a mixed estate again and just across from the hotel is a bowling alley which looks promising. When we go in the place is not too busy but is O.K. and later shows it is a popular place with the locals as it becomes busier. We don't stay too late as tomorrow is an early start to get to Calais for the ferry.

Sunday 10th September

Reims to Lancaster

                Our last french bread breakfast is something to be pleased about but soon we are back in the cramped confines of the coach across the flat lands of northern France. When we pass through the area of WWll battlefields, where you can see for miles across the wide open spaces. I make the mistake of asking Pete about the history of the events and get an enthusiastic but lengthy account of military history. I only have myself to blame !

                Stuart again makes good time with the journey and even with a short stop at a warehouse outside Calais for cheap wine, we arrive early at the port and manage to get an earlier sailing than planned, which means we should be home earlier than expected. On the ferry we have time to eat, drink and shop at the duty-free on an otherwise uneventful crossing.

                At Dover we say farewell to the first rider to depart on his own route home and this is repeated all the way up through Britain as at each stop a few more of our new friends leave us. We reach Lancaster after dark and bid goodbye to our Kendal clubmates, head for our own homes and a return to reality and work the next day.

Postscript

                As Fully fledged members of the Burneside Wheelers the Lancaster C.C. six were invited to the first Pyrenean Reunion in Kendal a few weeks later, when plans for the next trip were discussed. Should it be the Alpes or the Dolomites ? Whatever, I definitely want to repeat the long distance Audax experience where you can live the life of a stage-race rider, ride same roads as the big Tours and have a great holiday whatever one's fitness or ability.

                If you want to do this and can put up with sitting on a coach for a few days, come with us next trip. Here are a few suggestions of things to take, not in any particular order of merit or necessity, that will make the trip a more pleasant experience.

1. A triple chainset 26/36/46 with 12 to 24 sprockets. Really !

2. Indigestion tablets.

3. Some af Maeurigs pills which make you sleep through the entire coach journey.

4. Food. Lots of food . Tins of rice pud or whatever you can get down easily at lunch time.

5. Food. For breakfast, Muesli or weetabix, or any edible breakfast food.

8. Indigestion tablets.

7. Earplugs. In case you share a room with a snoring Kendalian or have any Geordies in the group at any time.

8. A long bungee strap. (To fasten to Pete's seatpin on climbs)

9. Vaseline. (To sit on)

10.Something to add to a bottle of Maxim to make it taste O.K. and stop it giving you indigestion. (This hasn't been invented yet)

11. Indigestion tablets.

12. Videos not about cycling. Motorcyling for instance.

13. And don't forget your toothbrush !!I!!!!

                Many thanks are due to Tony Bradshaw for co-ordinating the Burneside group (if that is what you do to a Burneside Wheeler) , which continued even after the event by arranging special commemorative 'T' shirts, and to Graham Baxter Tours for organising the trip. The 'T' shirt we had made and the medal received from the organisers in France are the material records of the trip but the memories of the experience are much more important and dramatic.

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